An offal dish by the first Spanish female war correspondent, Carmen de Burgos. Livers and lungs, whole heads, tripe, tongue, face, feet and tails...offal has always been a fundamental part of traditional Spanish cooking. Now, cooks such as Javi Estévez are updating and renewing traditional recipes to create dishes with complex and refined new flavours.
Blanch the trotters using cold water with salt and a bay leaf. Boil for 10 min. Discard the water and boil the peeled vegetables, bay leaf and salt for about 4 hours.
Once cooked, remove the trotters, debone them, and roll them using plastic wrap. Chill the rolls. Set aside.
Filter the broth, reduce it to about half its original volume, and salt to taste.
Separately, make a blonde caramel sauce with the cinnamon stick and soak in the thickened broth. Boil to thicken. Set aside, keeping it warm.
Peel the crayfish and set aside.
Remove the plastic wrap from the rolled-up trotters and cut them into thin slices to make a carpaccio.
When it's time to eat, place the carpaccio in a deep dish, add the cinnamon sauce and the crayfish and garnish with baby radish leaves and a little extra virgin olive oil.
The author of La cocina moderna, Carmen de Burgos, was a 19th-century intellectual who helped establish feminism in Spain. In her columns, novels and essays she discussed education, divorce and the importance of voting for women. She was a cook but also a teacher, writer, journalist and activist. Above all she is a great source of inspiration for the 21st century.See the book